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Making Craft Cider: A Ciderist’s Guide by Simon McKie

Making Craft Cider: A Ciderist’s Guide by Simon McKie is an excellent starting point when learning to make your own cider. This is a short and well-written book that does a good job of summarising the best of the other four books in this series of reviews. McKie covers all the important topics—including choosing apples, pressing, blending, additions, and measurements—in a very short book, but manages to include enough detail to make informed choices in your first efforts as a ciderist. McKie includes a good explanation (with examples) of how to calculate specific gravity when adjusting sugar content, an important but often neglected topic. I appreciate the clear and accurate description of fermentation over the attempt at literary descriptions found in some other books. A useful note that McKie clearly describes is that having the correct total acid content is important for taste, but total acid is not the same as the pH, which is important for avoiding microbial infection.

Making Craft Cider is one of the most professionally produced zymurgy books I have read. It is well written, well typeset, nearly typo free, and has a good glossary and index. I’m not a fan of glossy paper, but it fits well with McKie’s use of many well-chosen photographs. The typical caveat about slight differences in terminology across the pond applies, but McKie is accurate and easy to read.

Making Craft Cider: A Ciderist’s Guide is a good first book for an aspiring ciderist to read. If you want same background on the American history of cider and styles of cider, you’ll also want to read Ben Watson’s Cider, hard and sweet. If you continue with cider making, you’ll also read Andrew Lea’s Craft Cider Making for slightly more information, but McKie’s book is the place to start.


This is the fourth review in a series on cider making books.


BibTeX reference:

@book{mckie2011making,
    Author = {Simon McKie},
    Publisher = {Osprey Publishing},
    Series = {Shire Library},
    Title = {Making Craft Cider: A Ciderist's Guide},
    Year = {2011}
}

Rain flees the plow

Mesoamerican rainfall anomalies, AD 800--950; source NASA GISS

There is increasing evidence that not only are we currently altering the global climate, but that humans have influenced regional climates in the past. A good place to start looking at this idea is today’s post on the NASA Earth Observatory. The paper discussed contributes to the evidence that Mayan agriculture contributed to the collapse of Mayan society in the AD 800s. My interpretation of the current best understanding can be summarized as:

Agricultural land was expanded through deforestation. The increase in agricultural land at the expense of forested land slightly altered rainfall, slightly increasing the severity of naturally occurring droughts. This increased the likelihood of famine and disease, amplifying the other factors that lead to the collapse of the Classic Mayan culture.

This potential demonstration of historical human influence on climate supports the concept that we have left the Holocene and entered the Anthropocene. It is also one more demonstration that the concept of “Rain follows the plow,” which was influential in expanding settlement of the American West & Great Plains in the 1800s, was flawed.

There are still many non-scientists who state that any claims of human caused changes in climate are simply ‘hubris’, but the growing list of examples of relatively small populations altering regional climates in the past should convince them of the plausibility of seven billion people altering the global climate.

New open source projects

I wonder what fraction of new open source projects are created because previous projects are poorly documented. Most programs I need have already been coded, but often the documentation is missing, inaccurate, or so poorly written that the program is useless. Because of this, it is often easier for others to write their own equivalent program than to use or contribute to an existing program. Still, the best open source option is usually closer to what I need than commercial programs are, with the added benefit of being open source.

First snow of the season

We finally got the first snow of the 2011–2012 winter. I got out early on Saturday and set tracks on most of the paths at Fox Island, with double tracks on the wider ones. We had the busiest day of rentals we have had in a couple seasons. Sunday morning I went in early and skied most of the trails, the fun ones more than once. The owls were quite talkative on Sunday just before sunrise, and all five types of woodpeckers that frequent the park showed up sometime during the day. There were a few spots I had to shovel snow onto, but the trails were in amazingly good condition for the number of people who had skied them. The warm front was delayed enough to ski all day. But overnight a warm front came in with a thunderstorm, and now the snow is gone and I’m dreaming of winter again.

SOPA & other problems

It is good to see all the opposition to SOPA and PIPA, including today’s website blackouts. The flow of information due to the right to free speech is necessary for a democracy to function. SOPA and PIPA will have a negative impact on free speech and fair use, all for the cause of allowing a few giant corporations to squash anyone who they merely claim is assisting in infringing one of their copyrighted works. Copyright infringement is already illegal and there are already sufficient enforcement mechanisms to deal with piracy. It has already been shown that some if the industry copyright enforcement actions—such as CRAP/DRM—are actually counterproductive, so why anyone thinks SOPA/PIPA would help is beyond me.

But the silliness of SOPA/PIPA isn’t my point today. The outcry against SOPA/PIPA is good, and hopefully gets the attention of our “representatives.” But where is the outrage about even more important issues? A healthy planet is necessary to sustaining life, but other than some minor stories about the Keystone XL pipeline protests and fracking, climate change and other environmental problems aren’t getting much attention. Much of the coverage these problems get is uncritical repetition of various politician’s claims that the problems don’t exist. Or what about abortion? There are about 2200 abortions per day in the United States, even though the right to life is one of the most fundamental rights.

Protests and letter writing campaigns against bad laws such as SOPA/PIPA are good, but we must also take serious action against other important problems.


Now, for a funny thought….

If I was evil, I’d have created one of the anti-SOPA/PIPA JavaScript overlays. It would be a nice clean one that you can click to get around, and it would have a cookie for each site so you only see it once. But then, half way through the day, I’d insert an ad that must be clicked before viewing the site. Muhaha!

But I’m too ethical to do that, which is why I’ll never make any money.


Suggested reading:

First ski of the season

I finally got to ski for the first time this season. We got a heavy dusting of light dry snow on Friday night. The dusting was just enough to use my rock skis on the fairways at the Foster Park golf course. Living so far south and at such a low elevation, it may be a couple more weeks until winter finally starts. It’s now well above freezing, and is supposed to rain soon, but at least I got a few hours of skiing, bicycling, and unicycling in while we had a little snow.

Real Cidermaking on a Small Scale by Michael Pooley and John Lomax

Real Cidermaking on a Small Scale by Michael Pooley and John Lomax is a good introductory book on cider making. It is short with lots of photographs. One feature I like that is not in the other cider books is a pair of flowcharts on the steps for making either naturally conditioned sparkling cider or still cider.

Pooley and Lomax promote what Lea calls a ‘naturalistic style’ of cider making. They prefer to not add sulfur dioxide, but do recommend using commercial yeast. They note that if the juice is processed well and has enough acidity, there is a low chance of bacterial infection in the time before the yeast dominates. This is easy for them to ensure, because this book is primarily aimed at very small batches where the cider maker chooses, washes, and presses the apples themselves. They include a plan for building a small slatted basket cider press. They note that most ciders will end up clear without filtration or fining. An interesting idea that I learned from this book is that wine boxes are an inexpensive way to store still cider in a refrigerator.

Because Real Cidermaking on a Small Scale is an American edition of a British book, the terminology is a bit different from the American books, but it is well written and easy to understand. You just may need to learn a few more terms when you look for supplies locally. There are some clip-art-ish illustrations that don’t add anything add anything to the book, but it is mostly well illustrated and includes lots of photographs. It is distinguished from many homebrewing books because this cider making book has a professionally typeset and designed look. I like that Pooley and Lomax are consistent with the terminology that cider means the fermented variety; before fermentation it is apple juice. This demonstrates that the corruption of the term cider during Prohibition hasn’t spread out of the United States.

Real Cidermaking on a Small Scale is a good and very short introduction to cider making. If you have access to apple trees and don’t want to read much, this is a good starting point. If you are like me and want more technical details to help make decisions, you’ll end up reading Craft Cider Making by Andrew Lea soon after this book. If you are more interested in cider’s history and styles, read Ben Watson’s Cider, hard and sweet.


This is the third review in a series on cider making books.


BibTeX reference:

@book{pooley2011real,
    Author = {Michael Pooley and John Lomax},
    Edition = {2nd},
    Publisher = {Fox Chapel Publishing},
    Title = {Real Cidermaking on a Small Scale:
                An Introduction to Producing Cider at Home},
    Year = {2011}
}

Craft Cider Making by Andrew Lea

Andrew Lea’s Craft Cider Making is the best book I have read on producing your own cider from fresh apple juice. It is an excellent introduction to making traditional ciders. As a food biochemist who spent 13 years in cider related research, the author is probably the most qualified author in this series. This background contributes to making this the most scientifically accurate of the cider books I am reviewing. This doesn’t detract from the readability of the book, Craft Cider Making is as well written as any of the other books.

Since this book is from the UK, some of the terminology is slightly different from what is used in the American books, but in the areas that matter this one is more correct. Since cider came to America from England there isn’t too much of an adjustment, you just need to know some small changes such as calling 4.5 liter bottles demijohns; American homebrewers usually use the term for bottles over 25 liters.

Being from the UK, you also have to recognize that the apple varieties are different than the ones we have in the US. Since the principles are the same, this just means you should just treat the section on apples as an introduction to terminology and concepts, not particular cultivars. You can then choose apples with similar characteristics. Or do what I did and just use the fresh juice available at a local orchard.

Craft Cider Making is focused on making traditional ciders. It includes a short chapter on cultivating apples, but only details needed for cider making; if you want a book on growing cider apples read an orchardist’s book. This is an example of the focus helps keep the book short and on track. Lea provides a good appendix of further resources, including brief reviews of other cider books and recommendations for books on cultivating apples.

While some of the other books downplay the use of sulfur dioxide in cider, Lea recommends some sulfiting. He notes that the use of sulfite is actually traditional, it’s just that in earlier times it was done by burning a sulfur candle or string in the barrel prior to filling it instead of adding Campden tablets. An interesting historical note from this book is the fact that sparkling beverages began with cider in England several decades before the famous start of champagne production in France. This was due to the location of the invention of the process necessary to make the high quality bottles required to maintain pressure.

Craft Cider Making is the best cider making book I have read. If you want a reference to use when making your own cider, this is the book I recommend buying. If you are more interested in learning history and styles of cider, read Ben Watson’s Cider, hard and sweet.


This is the second review in a series on cider making books.

In addition to the book, Andrew Lea has a good website.


BibTeX reference:

@book{lea2011craft,
    Author = {Lea, Andrew},
    Publisher = {Good Life Press},
    Title = {Craft Cider Making},
    Year = {2011}
}

Cider, hard and sweet by Ben Watson

The first book I read on cider was Ben Watson’s Cider, hard and sweet. This book is an excellent starting point for Americans only familiar with the pasteurised and preserved “cider” found in grocery stores in the fall. It provides a good introduction to the styles of cider produced around the world and includes the best history of cider I have read.

To avoid the problem that most Americans think of cider as an unfermented beverage, Watson adds a new term. His preferred term is “real cider” for fresh apple juice that has not been pasteurized or preserved. Both real cider and the cloudy grocery store kind are considered sweet cider. The sweet cider distinction leaves the transparent juice from grocery stores called apple juice. To fit this naming scheme, traditional cider must be called hard cider when the meaning is ambiguous.

Because America’s “cider culture” died decades ago, Watson includes a chapter on tasting cider. I think this section is more in-depth than needed, but it is probably beneficial for people unfamiliar with conducting experiments. The glossary of cider-tasting terms was helpful for learning to describe the flavors of ciders.

Watson includes two chapters on making your own cider. These are an okay starting point, but if you are interested in cider-making, I recommend Andrew Lea’s Craft Cider Making. These two chapters contain my only real complaints about this book: a misleading representation of yeast reproduction, and some incorrect terminology. Watson conflates malolactic and secondary fermentation. These are actually different processes. Secondary fermentation is caused by the continued action of the brewing yeast (typically Saccharomyces spp) after moving the cider off its lees left by the primary fermentation. Malolactic fermentation is a separate process involving lactic acid bacteria (eg Lactobacillus spp, Pediococcus spp). Secondary fermentation is still converting sugars to alcohols, malolactic fermentation is converting malic acid to lactic acid. Since I hadn’t yet read Lea when I started my 2011 ciders, Watson provided much of my original knowledge base, and my results have been good.

The history sections of Cider, hard and sweet led me to some conclusions about my previous perception of cider. Part of my original misconceptions were due to the fact that in the United States cider is often called “hard cider”. This gave me the impression of cider being a distilled beverage instead of a relatively low alcohol fruit wine. The former popularity of applejack contributed to a negative image of cider. This is due to the affects of the fusel alcohols and methanol that are concentrated when applejack is created from cider by freeze distillation. The adulterated drinks sold as “cider” during the industrial revolution also contributed to this incorrect image of true cider. Watson’s history of cider does a good job of correcting these misconceptions, as well as creating an appreciation for the history and styles of cider in America and Europe.

As for the production of the book: it is more professional than many of the other cider and brewing books I have read, but I found the typography and layout annoying. I also dislike the silly use of BCE. This is an unnecessary complication of the language: there is no good reason not to just stick with BC.

Cider, hard and sweet does a good job of introducing all aspects of cider production from choosing apples through cooking with cider. Overall, this is a good introduction for someone unfamiliar with cider, but it is no longer my first recommendation for a book on cider making. If you are unfamiliar with cider, start here; if you want to make your own, continue with Andrew Lea’s Craft Cider Making.


This is the first review in a series on cider making books.


BibTeX reference:

@book{watson2009cider,
    Author = {Ben Watson},
    Edition = {2nd},
    Publisher = {The Countryman Press},
    Title = {Cider, hard and sweet:
                history, traditions, and making your own},
    Year = {2009}
}

Cider

Two years ago, I became interested in the classic American drink: cider. This interest was partially due to Michael Pollan’s The Botany of Desire, and later Daniel Okrent’s Last Call. I happen to live in Fort Wayne, the final resting place of John Chapman (Johnny Appleseed) the great lower-Midwestern spreader of cider apples and the Swedenborgian cult. Photographing the dress rehearsals of a local theater group’s production “American Primitive”, which is almost entirely quotes from John and Abigail Adams, gave me an interest in president John Adams, who famously started each day with a tankard of cider. I wanted to learn more about cider.

At this point it is important to clarify some terms. Cider is produced by fermenting apple juice; it can be thought of as wine made from apples instead of grapes. The alcohol content is typically below that of wines, but can be anywhere in a wide range. There are many varieties, but they fit under the term cider. The gallon jugs labeled “cider” you can find in grocery stores are properly called apple juice, and are usually both pasteurised and preserved. What is typically sold as “apple juice” is filtered apple juice. To confuse things more, cider is often called “hard cider”, but this term is also used for applejack or distilled cider. The mangled nomenclature is one of the legacies of Prohibition, and only exists in the United States. Because of the confused terminology, some call fermented cider “hard cider”, unfiltered apple juice “sweet cider”, and filtered apple juice “apple juice”. Whenever I use the term cider I am referring to the fermented beverage. I refer to the unfermented varieties as filtered or unfiltered apple juice.

My interest in cider lead me to read several books on cider in 2011. These contained interesting history and technical information on the production of cider, with an emphasis on producing homemade cider.

We tried the bottled draft style ciders available locally. The draft ciders available taste good, but are a bit sweet. As I learned from my reading, they are actually kinda the light beer of the cider world: they are fermented dry, filtered, artificially back-sweetened, cut with up to half water, and force carbonated. Unlike light beer, these ciders taste good, but I wanted to try more traditional cider.

When apple season arrived, I bought several gallons of fresh apple juice from a local orchard. This fresh, unfiltered, non-pasteurised, no-preservatives added, juice is incomparably better than the pasteurised and preserved juice sold in grocery stores. We drank some of this juice fresh, but I fermented most into several varieties of cider. The first of the cider is ready—and tastes amazing—the rest are still fermenting or conditioning.

The Books

Here are links to my reviews of cider books. These reviews should be posted over the next several weeks.

The Ciders

Here are the ciders I made this year. All are made from the same batch of apple juice from a local orchard. I’ll post details RSN.

  • Red Star Pasteur Champagne yeast
    • dry still cider
    • off-dry carbonated cider
  • Lalvin EC–1118 yeast
    • dry still cider
    • sweet sparkling cider
    • raspberry still cider
    • raspberry sweet sparkling cider
    • cyser